Uses Marlin Firmware (a lot of the i3 variants use a Melzi board with Repetier firmware. it's not a must have, but it is a big quality of life improvement) Automatic bed leveling? (I upgraded to this a few months ago. What's the minimum build area I will accept (honestly, this isn't super important if you can do editing work as you can break larger files into pieces, still, a decent x/y and especially z height makes things easier If I was buying a printer today the list of things I'd want to answer
The Monoprices and Enders are usually pretty cheap. Out of curiosity what type of printer/model are you using? A quick look at printers shows prices all over the place.Īny recommendations on an inexpensive/good model?īest, BenI bought a Monoprice Duplicator i3 (just a rebranded Wanhao i3) v2 - any of those rebranded prusa i3 models are a good place to start for people imo because the support group around them is very deep and they are relatively cheap. That all leads down the rabbit hole of having it approved, safety tested, for sale to the public, etc etc.(Sounds like a lot of work for someone who - similar to you - has a very limited amount of steam ) It's a lot of work though, and at that point it kind of just makes more sense to make a either make a 2-3 piece mold, or in the case of the extensions, just take a plaster mold like some of the custom companies do. I'm decently handy with composites, I think I could take one of these (structural parts) print them with water soluble filament, then wrap them in carbon/kevlar. Which seemed a bit too steep for a prototype - although I admit I didn't explore it very far or get multiple quotes) I even had an idea for a chain tensioner that would be faster to use than screws.but also lost steam.I've looked at metal printing services, but they seemed far out of reach (the quote for the extension above was ~$7k in Titanium and ~$2k in Aluminum.
I reached out to a company that could take my files and make 3D prints using metal (which would have been an upgrade), but family and work stuff took precedent and I lost steam. Because of the nature of the process, they were prone to sheering between the layers if the stress were enough. Then I ran into the limitations of the materials. After dozens of prototypes, I feel like I had really solid designs for both LOOK KEO MAX 2 and Dura Ace pedals. I spent A LOT of time making toe-strap fixings for clipless pedals a couple of years ago.
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